New Construction Walkthrough Checklist: Your 11-Month Warranty Inspection Guide for Florida

Updated July 10, 2026
6 min read
AISHA

AISHA

Aisha is a content strategist with over 5 years of experience across multiple industries, with a strong focus on real estate marketing. At CFB, she leads content and SEO initiatives designed to improve local visibility, drive high-intent traffic, and support growth.

new construction walkthrough checklist

Key Takeaways

  • Schedule your inspection in month 10, not month 12. You need time to document findings, submit claims in writing, and give the builder a reasonable window to respond before the warranty deadline.
  • Hire a third-party inspector. A licensed home inspector with new construction experience catches things homeowners miss, including defects behind walls using thermal imaging and moisture meters. Expect to pay $300 to $500 in Central Florida.
  • Florida homes have climate-specific issues. Humidity, heat cycling, heavy rain, and hurricane-code construction create defect patterns that differ from homes built in other states. This checklist covers those Florida-specific items.
  • Document everything in writing. Verbal requests to your builder are not enforceable. Submit your punch list with dated photos through the builder's warranty portal or via email. Keep copies of all correspondence.
  • Know what is normal versus what is a defect. Minor nail pops, small drywall cracks at seams, and doors requiring seasonal adjustment are common settling items in Florida's first-year cycle. Structural cracks, persistent leaks, and HVAC performance failures are warranty-eligible defects.

QUICK ANSWER

Your 11-month warranty walkthrough is your last chance to document construction defects before the builder's one-year workmanship warranty expires. In Florida, builders are required to provide at least a one-year warranty under F.S. § 553.837. Schedule a professional inspection in month 10 or 11, walk every room, and submit all warranty claims in writing before day 365. This room-by-room checklist covers what to inspect, with Florida-specific items most national guides miss.

Three Inspections Every New Home Buyer Should Schedule

Most buyers think the walkthrough at closing is the only inspection that matters. It is not. New construction homes benefit from three separate inspections at different stages. The 11-month warranty inspection is the one most buyers forget to schedule, and it is arguably the most valuable.

When

What

Who Schedules It

Why It Matters

Before drywall

Pre-drywall inspection

Buyer (optional but recommended)

Last chance to see framing, wiring, plumbing, hurricane straps before they are covered

Before closing

Final walkthrough

Builder and buyer (standard)

Verify punch list items, cosmetic finish, systems are operational before you sign

Month 10–11

11-month warranty inspection

Buyer (hire a third-party inspector)

Last chance to submit warranty claims before the one-year workmanship warranty expires

Room-by-Room 11-Month Walkthrough Checklist

Work through your home systematically. Start outside, move to the roof and attic, then go room by room through the interior. Take photos of every issue you find and note its location.

Exterior: Foundation, Walls, and Grading

  • Foundation. Walk the full perimeter. Look for cracks wider than 1/16 inch, any signs of uneven settling, and staining that suggests water pooling against the foundation. In Florida, concrete block (CBS) construction is standard, and minor hairline cracks from curing are normal. Horizontal cracks or stair-step cracks along mortar joints are not normal and should be documented immediately.

  • Stucco and exterior walls. Florida homes with stucco finish commonly develop hairline cracks within the first year as the material cures. Look for cracks at window corners, door frames, and where different materials meet. Diagonal cracks radiating from window corners or cracks wider than a credit card edge are beyond normal settling and warrant a warranty claim.

  • Grading and drainage. After a full Florida rainy season, grading problems become visible. The ground should slope away from the foundation on all sides. Look for areas where soil has settled and water now pools against the home. Check that downspouts direct water at least four feet away from the foundation. Standing water near the foundation is one of the most common and most damaging issues found during 11-month inspections in Central Florida.

  • Caulking and sealant. Florida's UV exposure and heat cycling break down exterior caulk faster than in northern climates. Check all sealant around windows, doors, penetrations (hose bibs, electrical panels, dryer vents), and where the slab meets the exterior wall. Cracked, separated, or missing caulk allows moisture intrusion and pest entry.

Roof and Attic

  • Roof surface. From ground level, scan for lifted, cracked, or missing shingles or tiles. If the home went through hurricane season, check for wind damage the builder may not have addressed. Look at flashing around vents, the chimney (if present), and along valleys where roof planes meet.

  • Attic inspection. If you can safely access the attic, check for daylight visible through the roof deck, water stains on sheathing, and proper insulation coverage. In Florida, attic temperatures regularly exceed 140 degrees in summer, which accelerates the failure of improperly installed materials.

Florida-Specific: Hurricane Straps and Clips

Florida Building Code requires hurricane straps or clips connecting the roof structure to the wall framing. During your 11-month inspection, verify from the attic that these connectors are present, properly nailed (not missing fasteners), and show no signs of rust or corrosion. Missing or improperly installed hurricane straps are a serious structural defect and a wind mitigation issue that affects your homeowner's insurance premium.

  • Attic ventilation. Confirm that soffit vents and ridge vents (or powered attic fans) are unobstructed. In Florida's humid climate, inadequate attic ventilation traps moisture, promotes mold growth on sheathing, and dramatically shortens roof life. Insulation should not block soffit intake vents. Baffles should be installed at each rafter bay where insulation meets the eaves.

HVAC System

  • Performance. Run the air conditioning and measure the temperature difference between the supply register and the return air. In a properly functioning Florida HVAC system, the supply air should be 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the return air. A smaller differential may indicate a refrigerant charge issue, a dirty evaporator coil, or ductwork problems.

  • Ductwork. If accessible in the attic, check duct connections for gaps or disconnected joints. Leaking ductwork in a Florida attic means you are cooling the attic instead of your home, wasting energy and overworking the system.

Florida-Specific: AC Condensate Drain Line

Florida's high humidity means your air conditioning system produces a large volume of condensate water, especially between May and October. Check that the primary condensate drain line is clear and draining properly (you should see water dripping from the drain outside when the system is running). Verify that the secondary overflow pan under the air handler has a float switch or water alarm. A clogged condensate line is the number one cause of water damage in Florida homes and one of the most common 11-month warranty findings.

HVAC inspection

Plumbing

  • Under every sink. Open the cabinet under every sink in the home (kitchen, bathrooms, laundry) and look for active drips, water stains, or warped cabinet floors. Run the water for 30 seconds and check again. Slow leaks at supply connections and drain joints are common in the first year.

  • Toilets. Check that each toilet is secure to the floor (no rocking). Flush each one and listen for continuous running after the tank refills. A toilet that runs intermittently may have a faulty flapper valve or an improperly adjusted fill valve, both builder warranty items.

  • Water heater. Verify the temperature is set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the area around the base for signs of dripping. Inspect the pressure relief valve discharge pipe. The pan beneath the water heater should have a drain line routed to the exterior or a floor drain.

  • Water pressure. Turn on multiple fixtures simultaneously (kitchen faucet, a bathroom faucet, a shower) and check for significant pressure drops. Inconsistent pressure may indicate undersized supply lines or a pressure regulator issue.

Electrical

  • Outlets and switches. Test every outlet in the home with a three-light outlet tester (available at any hardware store for under $15). Verify that GFCI outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations trip and reset properly. Test every light switch and dimmer.

  • Panel. Open the main electrical panel and look for any tripped breakers. Verify that every breaker is labeled with the circuit it serves. Check for any signs of scorching or melting on breaker faces or wiring, which indicate a serious wiring defect.

  • Exterior lighting and outlets. Confirm all exterior outlets are GFCI-protected and have weatherproof covers. Test all exterior light fixtures, including soffit and landscape lighting that was included with the home.

Interior: Room by Room

  • Walls and ceilings. Walk each room and look for drywall cracks, nail pops, and tape separation at seams. Small nail pops (where the fastener pushes through the surface) are normal settling in the first year and most builders address them during the warranty walkthrough. Cracks at ceiling-to-wall joints or above door frames that are wider than a hairline or that have returned after a previous repair should be documented.

  • Windows and doors. Open and close every window and door. Check for smooth operation, proper latching, and adequate weatherstripping. In Florida, humidity and heat cause wood-framed components to expand and contract seasonally. A door that sticks in summer but operates normally in winter is a seasonal adjustment, not a defect. A door or window that does not close or latch properly year-round is a warranty item.

  • Flooring. Walk every room and listen for squeaks, especially on tile over concrete slab (common in Florida construction). Check for cracked tiles, grout cracks, and uneven transitions between rooms. In areas with luxury vinyl plank (LVP), look for gaps, buckling, or peeling at edges. These issues often appear after a full cycle of Florida heat and humidity.

  • Cabinets and countertops. Open every cabinet door and drawer. Check for proper alignment, smooth operation, and secure mounting. Look for chips or cracks in countertops, especially at sink cutouts and near appliances where installation damage is most common.

room by room inspection for warranty

Garage

  • Garage door. Test the automatic opener, safety reverse sensor, and manual release. The door should operate smoothly without binding or excessive vibration. Check the seal at the bottom of the door for gaps that allow water, pests, or light to enter.

  • Slab. Look for cracks in the garage slab. Florida garage slabs commonly develop shrinkage cracks as the concrete cures. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch or with vertical displacement (one side higher than the other) may indicate a settlement issue beyond normal shrinkage.

  • Fire separation wall. The wall between the garage and the living space should be continuous, fire-rated drywall with no gaps or penetrations. Check that the door from the garage to the house is a fire-rated, self-closing door. This is a Florida Building Code requirement and a safety issue.

What to Do After Your Walkthrough

Compile your punch list. Organize your findings by location and category (structural, mechanical/systems, cosmetic). Include a photo for each item with the date taken and a brief description of the issue.

Submit in writing. Send your punch list to the builder through their warranty portal, by email, or by certified mail. Keep a copy for your records. Under Florida Statute Chapter 558, written documentation of defects is essential if a dispute arises later.

Set a response deadline. Request a written response from the builder within 14 to 21 days acknowledging receipt and outlining a repair timeline. Reasonable builders will schedule repairs promptly. If the builder does not respond, follow up in writing.

Prioritize safety items. Structural cracks, electrical defects, missing hurricane straps, and active water leaks should be flagged as urgent. Cosmetic items like nail pops and minor grout cracks are lower priority but should still be documented before the warranty expires.

Verify completed repairs. After the builder completes warranty work, inspect each repair yourself or have your inspector return for a re-inspection. Do not sign off on repairs until you have visually confirmed them.

What Is Normal Settling vs What Is a Defect

Not everything found during the 11-month walkthrough is a warranty-eligible defect. Understanding the difference helps set realistic expectations and strengthens the credibility of legitimate claims.

Normal in the first year: Minor nail pops in drywall (fewer than five per room), hairline cracks at drywall seams or ceiling joints, slight door adjustments needed due to seasonal humidity changes, minor stucco hairline cracks (less than 1/16 inch), small gaps in baseboard or trim as materials acclimate to Florida conditions.

Warranty-eligible defects: Foundation cracks wider than 1/16 inch or showing displacement, persistent plumbing leaks, HVAC system not maintaining temperature, roof leaks or missing flashing, missing or improperly installed hurricane straps, electrical outlets not functioning or wired incorrectly, windows or doors that do not close or latch, active water intrusion at windows or walls, grading that directs water toward the foundation.

Built to Stand Up to Florida

At CFB Homes, we build every home in Sanford, Daytona Beach, and East Orlando with the Florida climate in mind. That means hurricane-code construction, properly sized HVAC systems, and attention to the details that matter most in year one and beyond. Our warranty process is straightforward: we want to hear from you when something is not right, and we stand behind every home we deliver.

Schedule a consultation with CFB Homes to discuss your new home project and the warranty protections that come standard with every home we build.

Disclaimer

This article is for general informational purposes only and does not constitute professional inspection advice. Hire a licensed home inspector for a thorough evaluation. Florida warranty statutes are subject to amendment. CFB Homes is a licensed residential builder and is not a home inspection company or law firm.

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Schedule it in month 10 after your closing date. This gives you time to receive the inspection report, compile your punch list, submit it in writing to the builder, and allow the builder a reasonable response window, all before your one-year workmanship warranty expires.

Most third-party home inspectors in Central Florida charge $300 to $500 for an 11-month warranty inspection, depending on the size of the home. Some inspectors offer thermal imaging and moisture meter testing for an additional fee. The cost is well worth it when compared to out-of-pocket repair costs after the warranty expires.

No. The final walkthrough before closing focuses on verifying that the home is complete and matches your contract specifications. The 11-month warranty walkthrough focuses on defects that have developed during your first year of living in the home, including issues caused by settling, weather exposure, and normal use.

Start by submitting your claims in writing with photo documentation. Under Florida Statute Chapter 558, homeowners must provide builders with written notice at least 60 days before filing a construction defect lawsuit. Most disputes are resolved during this pre-suit period. If the builder does not respond, consult a Florida construction defect attorney.

You can walk through the home yourself using this checklist, and you should. But hiring a licensed, InterNACHI- or ASHI-certified home inspector catches defects you are likely to miss, especially hidden issues like moisture intrusion behind walls, ductwork leaks in the attic, and electrical wiring problems. Their written report also provides professional documentation that strengthens warranty claims.

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